How biryani lost a Himalayan spice, and farmers their livelihood

India was once the world’s largest producer of large cardamom, a high-value spice (ranked among the most expensive after saffron and vanilla), with the Himalayan state of Sikkim at the heart of its cultivation. Large cardamom was prized not only for its aroma and flavour in culinary traditions like biryani but also as a crucial source of income for mountain farmers, sustaining rural economies and livelihoods.

The history of dishes such as biryani — introduced to India through Persian influences and perfected over centuries — has long been intertwined with rich, aromatic spices like cardamom that lend depth and character to its flavour profile. However, over recent years, the availability of Indian large cardamom has declined sharply, disrupting this legacy. What was once a steady supply of Himalayan spice has diminished, leaving chefs and food lovers to adapt to changing spice markets while small farmers face heightened uncertainty.

Farmers in regions historically known for large cardamom cultivation have seen their livelihoods erode as production has fallen due to a combination of factors — including climatic challenges, shifting agricultural priorities, market pressures and crop replacement with less labour-intensive alternatives. As global demand remains strong but supply from traditional Indian sources shrinks, growers find themselves squeezed by rising costs and declining incomes.

The decline of large cardamom production has broader socio-economic consequences. Beyond the spice’s absence from iconic dishes like biryani, the impact is deeply felt in Himalayan communities where farming once underpinned local economies and cultural traditions. With fewer opportunities in agriculture, many households are left seeking alternative livelihoods or migrating to urban centres, contributing to rural distress and weakening the agricultural fabric of the region.

In this context, restoring sustainable cultivation of Himalayan spices, supporting farmers with better market access and tackling environmental challenges could help preserve both culinary heritage and the economic wellbeing of the communities who have long nurtured these treasured crops.